São Miguel, The Azores (Day Two): Dophin-Sighting and Snorkeling at Vila Franca Islet
If you missed day one of our trip to the Azores, check it out here.
Our second day on São Miguel, we booked a full-day whale and dolphin watching tour that included a snorkeling excursion to Vila Franca Islet. We booked our tour through Picos de Aventura, and it was a good experience. The tour left from the marina, where we were given heavy-duty raincoats to keep off the cold sea spray. The boat itself was pretty small, so you got hit by a lot of spray. The seats were fairly comfortable on the ride out to the island—you were essentially horseback riding the cushion, with each space for a passenger separated by the seat back. On the way back, my thighs and butt were definitely feeling pretty sore from this position and the up-and-down motion of the choppy waters.
The whale-watching season in the Azores is April to October, but I would say we definitely didn’t hit peak season. If you’re lucky, you can visit during migration times to see humpback, blue, fin, and sei whales, or catch sight of some of the resident sperm whales. There was a very enthusiastic French woman with us who swore she saw a whale, but I didn’t. We did, however, see lots of dolphins. These included the bottlenose, which are gray and found in temperate and tropical waters throughout the world, meaning you’ve probably seen one before. We also saw the short-beaked common dolphin, which is a smaller species that has a yellow or tan panel along its head and side, a dark gray hourglass along the top of its body. Finally, we saw the Atlantic spotted dolphin, which are slightly larger than the common dolphin and recognizable (to non-experts!) by their spotted pattern. They actually develop spots after their first birthday, and as they age, the spots spread and darken.
Common Dolphin
Spotted Dolphin
The tour provided lunch, which for Mary was a sandwich with some pretty meaty chunks of chicken, and for me (the pescatarian), a salad with the usual greens plus corn and a lot of shredded carrot and an olive oil/vinegar dressing. Both of us got an apple and juice box, plus a mini pastry for dessert!
We ate lunch on Vila Franca Islet, a vegetated small “island” formed from the exposed remains of a Surtseyan volcanic cone. The entire thing is only 12-15 acres, and it’s a protected nature reserve. As such, you must visit through a ferry/tour and only 400 people are permitted access per day. It’s also a popular spot for cliff diving, and the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series circuit has included Vila Franca nine times.
The sunken crater of the volcanic cone creates a natural harbor and sandy beach (mostly) protected from waves. The water in September wasn’t particularly hot, but it was warm enough to go snorkeling without risk of shivering or turning blue, especially when the sun was shining right on you. We saw lots of fish (though nothing particularly noteworthy) and overall just enjoyed floating in the water with a spectacular view of São Miguel through the opening of the islet. While we were drying off, we were also practically overrun by these lizards!
After our tour, we returned to Ponta Delgada, viewed some historic buildings in the city center, then headed to dinner at A Tasca, one of the most highly rated restaurants in the city. They don’t take reservations and unsurprisingly, they had a pretty long wait. Luckily, you could order drinks and appetizers to tide you over while you waited outside. We ended up sharing a table with a nice couple from the US, and we tried the cheese fries and Alheira balls (a type of Portuguese sausage). The Azores are known for their meats and cheeses, and these did not disappoint! Dinner was delicious as well—a duck and chorizo risotto for Mary and a tuna steak with veggie slaw and potatoes for me. The waiter was hilarious (we love it when waiters joke around with you!), and at some point while we were eating, the table next to us had a straight up flaming (like the plate was on fire) sausage meal delivered, which created some great ambiance.
Thanks for reading!
Up Next: Hot Springs Soaking in Furnas