Travel with Me: A day in Bath, England
Base City: Oxford, England
Accommodations: The River Hotel, Botley Road
Transportation: Great Western Railway (1.5 hours)
June 16: Bath, England
The journey from Oxford to Bath is short and enjoyable through the train service that links the two cities. Upon arrival, Mary and I were energized from our free hot breakfast at the hotel. I loved Bath the last time I went, and I could see even more of its appeal in the summer, with the shops bustling and quirky displays of art and street performers out.
We headed to Bath Abbey first, where you can donate however much you can afford to look at the gorgeous architecture and stained glass windows of the abbey. We also stopped by Pulteney Bridge, which was out in full form. If you didn't know, this is where they filmed the scene in Les Mis where Javert jumps to his death.
Next, we went to the Roman Baths, the main attraction of this small city. This complex is a well-preserved site where Romans used to enjoy public bathing. Four main areas can still be seen: the Sacred Spring, the Roman Temple, the Roman Bath House, and the museum. These sites are below current street level, and it feels all the more powerful to be underground while looking at these buried treasures of antiquity.
One of my favorite parts of the Roman Baths is the curses they have on display in the museum: Romans used to etch curses to thieves onto metal and toss them into the water, hoping the goddess Sulis Minerva would bring retribution. One reads, "Docimedis has lost two gloves and asks that the thief responsible should lose their minds and eyes in the goddess' temple."
I will say that the last time I went to the baths was in off season, and it was much more enjoyable without all the tourists—but that's just how it is.
Next, we refueled with a cheeky Nando's for lunch, heading on to the Circus afterwards. The Circus is a prime example of the beautiful architecture that makes Bath such a unique city. It's a huge roundabout filled with old trees, surrounded by a circle of towering flats with breathtaking stone columns and intricate facades.
Up the road from the Circus is the Royal Crescent, a, you guessed it, crescent of even more upscale apartments with a private lawn in front of it.
I'm a sucker for anything that has to do with nature, so then, we headed to Royal Victoria and Albert Park and Botanical Garden. There, we found a recreation of the Temple of Minerva and some gorgeous plants to get lost in.
Then, because we hadn't done enough walking yet that day (I jest), we decided to go to Alexandra Park, where we could get an aerial view of the city. By the end of the mile-long walk uphill, we were sweaty and panting. Along behind us suddenly appeared two young men who weren't breaking a sweat and probably did double our speed, until they surpassed us at the lookout point. We all sat on a bench and had a lovely chat where we discovered they were world-traveling Canadians. Then, Mary and I made the slow descent back to the train station to return to Oxford, where we got some take-away Wagamama and went to bed early in preparation for the next trip: Stratford-upon-Avon.
If you missed the first installment, about our time in Boston, or the second, about Brighton, go here.